Question 1

How do I know if my AC has a refrigerant leak?

Accepted Answer

The biggest tell-tale is reduced cooling — the AC runs but the air coming out of the vents isn&#8217;t as cold as it used to be. Refrigerant doesn&#8217;t get consumed during normal operation, so if your system is low, it&#8217;s because it&#8217;s leaking out somewhere. Signs of a refrigerant leak Vents blowing warm or only slightly cool air while the system runs continuously Ice forming on the indoor evaporator coil or the copper line outside Hissing or bubbling sound from the indoor unit or refrigerant lines (rare but a clear sign) Higher electric bills — the system runs longer trying to keep up AC short-cycles or trips the breaker repeatedly Oily residue on copper refrigerant lines or fittings (refrigerant carries oil) Why &#8220;Just Topping It Off&#8221; Is a Bad Idea It&#8217;s also illegal under EPA rules without finding the leak first. Refrigerant is expensive ($75-$150/lb for R-410A, more for older R-22), and topping off a leaking system just wastes refrigerant and continues releasing it into the atmosphere. We always find and repair the leak first, then recharge to the manufacturer&#8217;s exact weight spec. Common leak locations Schrader valve fittings (rubber gaskets degrade) Copper line solder joints Evaporator coil itself (formicary corrosion in 8-12 year old coils) Compressor connections Refrigerant lines that have been damaged (yard work, animals) Refrigerant work requires EPA 608 certification — federal law. Every Right Way technician is certified. Schedule a refrigerant leak diagnostic →

Question 2

Is it cheaper to leave the AC on all day or turn it off?

Accepted Answer

For most Colorado homes, the cheapest approach is a programmable or smart thermostat with a moderate setback (5-7°F warmer) while you’re at work — not “leaving it off” and not “leaving it running at the same temp all day.”

The myth: “It uses more energy to cool a warm house than to maintain a cool one”

This is partly true and mostly wrong. Yes, your AC works harder to bring a 90°F house back to 75°F than to maintain 75°F. But the total energy used is still less than running the AC all day. The science here is straightforward: heat transfer rate is proportional to the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors. A warmer house gains heat slower, so cumulative energy use is lower with a setback strategy.

Recommended Colorado AC strategy

Home: 74-76°F during occupied hours
Away: 80-82°F during work hours
Sleeping: 72-74°F (most people sleep better slightly cooler)
Use a smart thermostat with geofencing — it brings the house back to setpoint as you approach home, no waiting

Colorado Diurnal Swing Bonus

Colorado’s dry air means temperatures drop significantly overnight even after hot afternoons. Open windows when the outdoor temp drops below your indoor temp (usually by 9-10 PM) and let nature do the cooling. Close the house up in the morning before it heats back up. This trick alone can cut summer AC use 20-30%.

A modern smart thermostat with proper setbacks typically saves 8-15% on summer cooling costs compared to “set it and forget it” at one temperature. Many qualifying thermostats earn a $50-$100 instant Xcel rebate.

Question 3

What size AC do I need for my Colorado home?

Accepted Answer

The right answer requires a Manual J load calculation — but as a rough guide, most Colorado homes need 20-30 BTUs of cooling per square foot. A 2,000 sq ft Wheat Ridge ranch typically needs a 2.5-3 ton AC; a 3,500 sq ft Evergreen mountain home might need 3.5-4 tons. Why &#8220;tonnage&#8221; matters and what it means HVAC tonnage doesn&#8217;t refer to weight — it&#8217;s a holdover from the days of ice. One ton of cooling = 12,000 BTU/hour of heat removal (the amount needed to melt one ton of ice over 24 hours). Residential ACs come in half-ton increments: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, and 5 ton. The risks of guessing Oversized AC Short-cycles (turns on/off fast) Doesn&#8217;t dehumidify properly Higher electric bills despite &#8220;bigger&#8221; capacity Premature compressor wear Right-Sized AC Long, gentle cooling cycles Better humidity control Lower electric bills Equipment lasts longer Undersized AC Can&#8217;t keep up on hot days Runs constantly Burns out faster Indoor humidity stays high What Manual J considers Square footage and ceiling heights Window count, orientation, and glass type Insulation quality (R-value of walls, attic, basement) Air infiltration rate Internal heat gains (occupants, appliances, electronics) Local design conditions (Denver vs. Evergreen vs. Bailey) We perform a full Manual J on every install quote — no charge, no obligation. It&#8217;s the only way to size right at Colorado altitude. Request a free AC quote →

Question 4

When should I replace my AC instead of repairing it?

Accepted Answer

The traditional rule is the &#8220;5,000 rule&#8221;: multiply the repair cost by the age of the unit in years. If the result is over 5,000, replacement is usually the smarter spend. A $600 repair on a 10-year-old unit ($6,000) leans toward replacement; the same repair on a 4-year-old unit ($2,400) does not. Strong replacement signals (almost always replace) R-22 refrigerant (Freon) — banned in the U.S. since 2020. Recharges cost $800+ when refrigerant is even available. Failed compressor — typically $1,800-$2,800 in a 10+ year old unit; a new system makes more sense System over 15 years old with any meaningful repair Multiple major repairs in the last 24 months — the system is telling you something The decision in one table Repair Under 10 years old Repair under $500 R-410A or newer refrigerant SEER 14 or higher First major repair Get Both Quotes 10-15 years old $500-$1,200 repair Energy bills creeping up Consider heat pump for rebates Replace 15+ years old R-22 system Compressor failure Repair over $1,500 Modern 16+ SEER2 units cut summer electric costs 30-50% versus a 2010-era 13 SEER unit. Combined with a current Xcel rebate (confirmed at quote time), the payback on a replacement is often 4-6 years. We&#8217;ll quote both repair and replacement honestly so you can make an informed call. See AC installation options →

Question 5

Why does my AC keep freezing up?

Accepted Answer

An AC freezing up is almost always one of two things: restricted airflow or low refrigerant. Both prevent the evaporator coil from absorbing enough heat, which lets the coil drop below freezing and ice over. Once it&#8217;s frozen, the unit can&#8217;t cool — and continuing to run it can damage the compressor. First Thing to Do Turn the AC off at the thermostat. Set the fan to &#8220;on&#8221; (not auto) to circulate room-temp air over the coil and melt the ice — this can take 1-4 hours. Don&#8217;t run the AC until it&#8217;s fully thawed. Airflow restrictions (most common) Severely clogged filter (replace it, immediately) Closed or blocked supply vents Dirty evaporator coil Failing blower motor or ECM not ramping up Collapsed or disconnected return ductwork Low refrigerant If your AC is freezing up but the filter is clean and airflow is normal, you likely have a refrigerant leak. Refrigerant doesn&#8217;t get &#8220;used up&#8221; — if you&#8217;re low, there&#8217;s a leak somewhere. EPA rules require us to find and repair the leak before recharging. Other causes Outdoor temperature too cool (running AC when outdoor temp is below 60°F) Thermostat malfunction calling for cooling continuously Faulty TXV (thermostatic expansion valve) If thawing it out and replacing the filter doesn&#8217;t solve the problem within one cycle, call us. Schedule AC repair or (303) 406-2717.

AC Installation in Denver (West & NW), CO